Not sure if your car would pass a Roadworthy Inspection?

Roadworthy requirements in Victoria are designed to keep all road users safe and to protect unwary buyers from buying vehicles that may not be safe to drive for various reasons. TGS Classic and Muscle Cars can help you with this.

Bring your car in to our well equipped workshop or Book a Roadworthy Inspection Online


Check out the VicRoads website for more information.
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If you want to be able to pass a Roadworthy Examination it helps to understand what the mechanic conducting the vehicle inspection will be considering when deciding if the car is roadworthy.


HERE IS A QUICK CHECKLIST, LET'S GO THROUGH EVERY STEP:

Brake & Braking Systems

Brakes and warning systems are an essential safety feature of all vehicles and must be in good working order to pass a roadworthy examination 

• All brake components must be functioning correctly, be mounted securely and appropriately located 
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• All brake components must be free from visible wear, distortion or damage 
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• Vehicle parking and emergency brakes must be functioning correctly 
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• Park brakes must be capable of keeping the vehicle stationary on any grade of hill up or down 
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• Brake lights (warning signs) must be fitted correctly and functioning 
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• Car horn must be working correctly ( warning signs) 
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• Brake systems must be free of leaks 
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• Brake linings must not be worn down to the wear indicators

Chassi and Vehicle Body

• An absence of any condition which could cause structural failure or otherwise affect safe operation
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• A sound floor, free of obstructions or any condition which could hamper safe operation
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• All latch mechanisms in correct working order, inc all door, boot, lid (utes), bonnet, hatch and tailgate latches
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• Bumper bars which eliminate sharp corners or protrusions must be securely fitted
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• Towbars (when present) should be in good condition and correctly fitted
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• Vehicles with a tray type body require suitable mudflaps for the vehicle type

General Condition Inspection

• Steering wheels should be suitable to the vehicle and any covers must be secure
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• All pedals and steering or control wheel knobs should be in working order and not hamper performance
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• A suitable rear view mirror must give a clear view to the rear of the vehicle 
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• There must be one or more effective horns or warning devices able to sustain a steady sound of constant pitch
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• Any car or vehicle built after 1 July 1988 must have a functioning speedometer displaying speed in km/h
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• Suitablle Fuel (filler) caps must be in use, be adequatelysecure and seal correctly
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• Plastic emergency or temporary fuel caps are not acceptable and will not pass inspection

Lights, Reflectors and Signals

Light requirements vary greatly with vehicle type, but as a general rule all vehicles must be fitted with;

• Headlights(Lights & Reflectors must be in good condition)
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• Brake Lights(aka stop lamps)
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• Front and rear position lights
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• Turn signal lamps (aka indicators or blinkers)
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• Number plate light/s
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• All Lights must be in reasonable working order
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• All lights must be correctly placed and securely fitted
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• All lenses or light covers must be clean and free of damage
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• All light covers and lenses need to be of the correct colour (not faded)

Seatbelts & Seats

Seatbelts need to be present and free of damage or obstructions whilst being secure and structurally sound. All seats, partcularlt the drivers seat, must be in good condition and fitted securely to the vehicle.

• Seatbelts must be present
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• Seatbelt webbing must be firmly secured
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• Seatbelt must not display any cuts, damage, wear, knots or fraying
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• All seats must be secure and structurally sound
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• Seats may not have protrusions or jagged edges
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• The drivers seat must not have any defect which could impede driving ability
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• Seat sliders must be functioning correctly and free of any looseness
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• If present head restraint must be secure and in a sound condition
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• No seatbelt component can be modified in any way 

Suspension & Steering

The vehicle must drive straight without wandering or pulling left or right when driving straight ahead. All steering components must be securely and correctly mounted and free from damage or excessive wear, including dust and grease seals. 

• Power steering fittings should be free of oil leaks
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• Adequate clearance between suspension components and vehicle body
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• All joints, pivots and bushes must be in good condition
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• Dust and grease seals must be deemed as suitable
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• All wheel bearings and mounts need to be in good condition
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• Shock absorbers and struts must be securely mounted
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• Shock & Struts must not display any sign of leaks 

Wheels and Tyres 

• Tyres must display a tread depth of 1.5mm (min) at any point on the tread reasonably expected to contact the road (other than at tyre tread indicators)
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• Where tread wear indicators are present, tyres cannot display sufficient wear that such indicators contact the road surface
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• Tyres and rims must be of compatible size
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• In the case of retreaded tyres, the ID of the retreader must be clearly marked
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• Retreaded tyres must display the word "retreaded" in addition to relevant markings as required by the Australian standard
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• Wheels, rims and tyres must be free of cracks or any other damage that could cause failure of the tyre, wheel or rim
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• The wheels and rims must cannot be out of balance or otherwise damaged, dented or buckled
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• You cannot have a "temporary use" spare tyre fitted as a road wheel
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• If you have spoke wheels, all spokes must be intact, straight, fitted and laced or tensioned correctly
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• When facing straight ahead the wheels and tyres must not project beyond the width of the mudguards
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• Tyres & Wheels must not contact any part of the vehicle during any combination of steering or suspension functions
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• Wheels must be have the correct type and number of studs, nuts (or both where required) and be securely fitted

Windows & Windscreen
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All windows need to be free of damage and must not be altered to the extent that it hampers safe vehicle operation. Impairment of a drivers vision of the road as a result of significant cracks, chips or scratches may cause the car to fail a roadworthy test. Minor wear and tear is sometimes deemed acceptable provided the drivers vision is not impacted. Windscreens with tinting included included during manufacture are acceptable. Tinting applied via coatings or tint films post manufacture is unacceptable.
To pass a Certificate of Roadworthiness vehicle windows should;

• Be free of any cracks, chips, scratches or damage which compromises driver view or safe operation
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• Have no alterations (including tinting) which might impact a drivers ability to see the road and other users at all times
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• Have Correctly fitted and properly functioning windscreen wipers
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• Include windscreen washer jets which are correctly positioned to effectively keep the windshield clear of rain, dirt or debris
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• Not have a windscreen where the primary vision area is tinted to more than 70% (where manufactured after 1971)
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• Not have a windshield which has tinting applied as a coat or tint film in the primary vision area

Make sure to book your appointment online by clicking here:

When you head to the shelves to take care of your ride, there can be a ton of products to pick from. These products are in the form of just about anything that you can think of from cleaning and conditioning your interior to keeping the underside of your hood clean and even everybody’s favorite part in keeping the paint nice and shiny.

Now, when you go through all of these products, it can be difficult to pick out just the right one. After all, this stuff can be pretty expensive and you definitely don’t want to have to buy more than you have to. Just the right combination of products can do the trick and you won’t have to spend an excess of money to get there.

This time, we check out a little combination of products with a substance bumping its way into the mix that promises to keep your leather seats nice and conditioned for their entire life. When the material starts to get old, it begins to fade hard and crack but, if you do your diligence and are making sure that you keep up with maintaining the seats, there’s a good chance that they will live far beyond what an uncared for set of seats will. After all, if you plan on hanging on your car, you don’t want the seats to be all raggedy when it becomes a classic, right?
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Follow along with the video down below that has a couple of conventional products that you’re going to want to use along with one secret ingredient that you might have never thought of. Let’s just say that the lady of the house might be a little bit upset when you start going through her personal hygiene products and snatch one of them out of the mix to give that luster back to your interior!

Late night infomercials try to convince us that there are miracle cures and magic polymers that can fix any paint scratch or keep our engines purring like new. The truth is that all the quick-fix gimmicks and specially formulated car care products in the world won’t be the reason your classic car or truck continues to run well and look great. It is regularly scheduled, proper care and maintenance that older, high six-figure mileage vehicles require.
The secret to keeping your classic running and looking great is as simple as following a regularly scheduled maintenance routine and using the manufacturer’s recommended motor oil and fluids. This in conjunction with replacing parts that become compromised from wear and tear, like spark plugs and engine belts, is what will make a real difference.

Here are 10 maintenance tips that you can follow to help keep your classic car or truck in tip top shape:

1. Change the oil. Nothing will destroy a motor quicker that old or low oil levels. On the other hand, nothing will keep a motor running smoothly than regular oil and oil filter changes. It is the life blod of every motor and should be a number one priority to check and change regularly.

2. Flush the cooling system. At least once a year every car whether old or new should have its cooling system flushed out. Replace the old coolant with a fresh 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water to help prevent the system from corroding or developing any deposits that can restrict flow through the system.

3. Change transmission fluid and differential oil. This may not have to be done frequently, but it the more often you can do this the better. Newer cars require it at their service intervals, but classics could really use this a little more regularly. Make sure to use the recommended transmission fluid and gear oil with the correct viscosity.

4. Keep it clean. Washing your car regularly will help to ensure you are removing any harmful impurities that will eventually eat away at your paint’s finish. Don’t forget about the undercarriage as well. Salt and road grime are really good at finding their way into every nook and cranny. Be sure to clean the underside of your car really well to help all the exposed parts clean and corrosion free.

5. Wax on wax off. Wax is crucial in keeping the paint looking its best. You should give your classic a really good waxing at least once every six months. While you are at it, you should also apply some chrome care to the chrome trim to help keep it shining.

6. Protect the interior. Keeping your classic out of the sun is one of the best ways to protect the leather, vinyl and plastic in your interior from fading and drying out. There are also leather creams, vinyl treatments, and UV blockers that can also help to protect and preserve your classic car interior.

7. Check your ball joints. All too often we see ball joints fail before their time should be up. Regularly checking them to ensure they are packed with the grease they need is all you need to do. A dry ball joint will surely fail quickly while a well greased joint can last a lifetime.

8. Lube your drive-line. Many components of your drive-line, like the u-joints, require regular lubrication as well. Checking to see that everything looks greased well can save you a lot of money and frustration should any part of your drive-line need to be replaced. You may need to remove the drive-line to get to the grease fitting depending on your vehicle.

9. Repack your wheel bearings. You should regularly inspect, clean and repack your wheel bearings with the recommended grease. This might not be the quickest job in the world, but it is cheap to do. You will save yourself tons of money on pricey repairs down the road. It doesn’t need to be done monthly, but you should certainly do it at your regularly scheduled major service intervals.
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10. Pump the brakes. Regularly test your brakes to make sure everything feels right and isn’t making any strange sounds. Bled your brake system at least once per year. It is cheap to replace while calipers, hoses and sensors are not. It is also a good idea to keep a close eye on your brake pads to ensure they are not unevenly wearing down your rotors. Pads are another relatively inexpensive item to replace.

These are the basics, now if you have a problem that my go beyond this i suggest you contact us and book an assessment of your vehicle or even a car service for a quick checkup.

Whether you're selling cars on the Internet or initiating the transaction in someone's driveway, it's important to properly represent the automobile. This is even more important when you're on the buying side of the equation. A question that will often surface from both buyers and sellers is if the automobile is numbers matching.
Here we'll discuss the definition of this term and the variations of interpretation.
Discover what numbers to look for and where they are located. Finally, learn how the collectability and the value of the automobile depend on the results of the investigation.

DEFINITION OF NUMBERS MATCHING
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The definition of a matching numbers car can vary from person to person. However, a classic car purist might say that a truly original, matching numbers car will still have all the parts that it was manufactured with. This can include everything, down to the tiniest nut and bolt.
That would be very hard to find in a vintage automobile. In the real world, we often use a more practical definition of the term. Many collectors find it acceptable if all the parts are from the assembly line at the time of production or have been replaced with authentic new old stock parts.
New old stock seems like an oxymoron. However, it is commonly used to describe parts the factory created but never made it on an automobile.
Instead, the factory warehoused these parts as factory stock. They would then send these components to the dealership's parts department as needed.

STILL A MATCHING NUMBERS CAR

People enjoy the classic car hobby with varying levels of strictness and commitment. Therefore, a more lenient definition for numbers matching is necessary.
The most general use of the term means that the engine and transmission are marked with the same sequence number as the chassis VIN number. However, the rear axle and differential date code and casting number must also correspond with the vehicle.

LOCATING AND DECIPHERING THE NUMBERS

Most car fans are familiar with the VIN (vehicle identification number). It's found inside the driver's side windshield pillar of today’s modern cars. American automobile manufacturers began stamping and casting identifying numbers on cars and their parts in the mid-1950s. The obvious purpose was to provide an accurate description of the vehicle.
This became especially important when mass production numbers starting climbing to epic proportions. While today's VINs are relatively standard, there wasn't any standard for VINs, or any other numbers, on older cars. VINs, (formally called a serial number) came in all sorts of variations. The implementation and makeup depended on the individual manufacturer.
The factory stamps all parts with several numbers at the time of production. This verifies essential facts about the automobile and also assists in the manufacturing sequence. Some cars will have a significant identification plate or build sheet.
These list the major part numbers against which you can check. You'll find these numbers stamped on the engine, transmission and rear axle. But also on the alternator or generator, carburetor, ignition distributor, water pump and cylinder heads.

INVESTIGATING THE CARS' NUMBERS
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When buying or selling a classic, find out what numbers you need to verify. Then learn where they're located on the vehicle. This takes a diligent “Sherlock Homes” type mindset. It can be a bit frustrating even for the experienced classic car buyer. If in doubt, contact a professional who knows that particular model car.
They can either check the numbers for you or teach you how to find and interpret the numbers yourself. You can find resources for such information through the many model specific car clubs. Their members are knowledgeable about these specific automobiles and are willing to help.
When you're investigating a car’s history, make sure to clarify with the seller what part numbers are matching and what parts aren’t. Then verify for yourself or with your mechanic by including part numbers in your inspection checklist. Make sure to complete this task before making an offer or negotiating the final price tag of a classic car.

VALUE OF A NUMBER MATCHING CAR

Finally, why bother to check the numbers? The value of a classic car is becoming increasingly reliant on the vehicle's originality. You’ll find much higher prices associated with these rare cars. It’s one more piece to the puzzle of determining the market value of a collector car. Owning a verified number matching automobile also represents a more secure investment. In fact, it can produce pleasantly surprising results in an auction setting.